I found this ancient city surprisingly modern in it’s architecture, transportation systems, and dual signage in English. Here we are at the Bird’s Nest, but all over Beijing we spotted futuristic shapes.

As you can see from the photos, the smog is terrible. It dulls the sky, scratches your throat and eyes, and smells vaguely of smoke. In the Olympic Village, it seems especially cruel and sad – a sharp contrast to the arenas built for the best athletes in the world. Our tour guide said the pollution has improved slightly, only because the worldwide surplus of steel has closed some of the factories. Some people wear masks. After four days, I was ready to leave the city.

Beijing is teaming with people, especially during the summer with tourists flocking to the same sites we were here to see. There are not as many western faces as I would have expected, and some people asked to take our picture. The twins were a novelty. They were a little surprised and shy about their celebrity status.

In contrast to the old Hutong neighborhood where you can still ride a rickshaw through the alleyways, the 798 Art Zone has transformed old warehouses into hip galleries. Many of shops have funny little statues out front to welcome in visitors.

We became adept at riding the subway after getting fleeced on our novice taxi ride from the airport. They project commercials on the subway tunnel walls, so at least you can watch the Tarzan movie trailer while you are packed in like sardines. Driving (and just crossing the street) is a little crazy with all the traffic weaving to find space. Lots of mopeds, complete with “oven mitts” on the handles, I assume so their hands stay warm in the winter.

People wear western clothes, including t-shirts with nonsensical English translations, like “NYC: the City of Apple”. Also in fashion, the elegant leather man purse (I approve), and nylon ankle socks with sandals (I do not).

Two iconic traditions we loved were watching Chinese acrobats and eating Peking duck. Why have I never tried this meal before? It was absolutely delectable! So good, we tried it twice.

For as modern as the city felt, the government suppresses some of my favorite apps: Google maps, NYT, Facebook. My fingers would forget and swipe without resolution.

Also, I did not like the public squat toilets. Ok, I’ll stop complaining now.